New and improved! Preparing cotton for dyes the easy way...

OK- this is my new method, which I have developed to make it easier AND more effective.

First of all- I now rely heavily on a small portable washing machine that I purchased for the art room. It is saving me so much time and energy!! If there is no way this could happen for you, perhaps you have a washing machine at home? or you could use this countertop version (which I use to rinse out dark colored dyes)? If not, no worries, just plan on spending time with big pots and buckets, burners and sinks.

Also: you need a kitchen scale. You only need a basic one, so don't spend too much money. If it can measure in grams it makes the math easier to figure out percentages, which most of the digital ones do.

Here is my method for preparing any cellulose (plant based) fibers such as cotton, linen, bamboo, or hemp.

1. Scour (aka wash)

Weigh the material (write down the weight immediately) and tossed it into the washing machine with washing soda (or soda ash or sodium carbonate) and hot tap water- I even add some boiling water from my kettle. The idea is to really get all the oils and other residues out to allow the dye to get in. Alternatively you can boil them in a big pot! Rinse thoroughly- I usually go directly into mordanting at this stage, but you could also dry them if it's going to be a while.

2. Mordant

For cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo) I have started using aluminum acetate, which works really well. Alum or aluminum sulfate is a more common mordant and also works on protein fibers, but if you want great results on cotton I think it's worth it to seek out alum acetate. I leave the material in the washing machine (or the pot) and fill it back up with hot water. I weigh out 5-10% of the weight of the material, dissolve it in boiling water and poured it in with the material. If you are using a washing machine let the machine agitate or stir a little every 10-15 minutes, but mostly let it sit covered for as long as you can (I usually leave it overnight, which gives it plenty of time to soak in). When you are done, rinse well.

3. Rinse bath

At this stage you are supposed to dip it in a wheat bran or chalk bath and rinse to help get out any unbound mordant. I think it's worth it, but I was not introduced to this concept until recently and sometimes I forget. Oops! Here is what I aspire to: dissolve around 56g/4 tbs calcium carbonate in a 5 gallon bucket of warm water. Dip the material in, swish around, wring out and rinse.

I think it's worth it for kids to see and assist with some of this, but it is not always practical given that I only see them once a week. I do have them watch & help with the mordant stage for wool in alum, which is fewer steps, and I make sure they know that I have used minerals to help the color hold on to the fibers. All of the mordants I use are non-toxic and safe for the environment, but I still use masks when measuring powders. I usually put them into tall mason jars so the kids can watch me pour in warm/hot water from a distance without risk of breathing in powder. If the children are around I keep the temperature range a little lower. Safety trumps precision in my book.

One other note- when wringing out items by hand, try draping them over a long wood spoon handle. Grab the free hanging ends in one hand and use the other hand to twist the wood handle. This is a very efficient and less exhausting method for getting the water out! I then leave the items on the handle to drip dry over the sink.